are we there yet?

Ever since I can remember, I have shown little promise in the institution known as ‘saving’.  As a child, occasions such as Easter would acutely reveal this fact.  No sooner had the wonder that is known as ‘Cadbury Chocolate Button Egg’ been presented to me, I would immediately set about ripping it apart with no particular strategy in mind.  I would then gorge myself until intoxicated.  When I would finally recover from this reverie, I’d find my sister surgically removing one or maybe two pieces of an egg shell and then secreting the significant remains behind her perfectly dressed dolls.  Occasionally, I’d find her checking on her booty, like a squirrel carefully tending to its acorn larder which much last all winter or else…

This attitude tormented me no end.  Why on earth would you save stuff? For what possible reason other than to drive your younger crazy?

According to my mother, I’ve always been adept at sourcing funds for my immediate pleasures.  When I was still in nappies – so the story goes – we were at a picnic and I kept disappearing and returning with sweets.  On investigation, mum found that I had figured out that if I took empty Coke bottles to a food kiosk, someone would eventually notice me standing there and reward me with the greatest drug of all – sugar!

This aptitude for fuelling my addictions continued into later childhood and included charging my brother for ironing his shirts so I could buy a quarter of sherbet lemons or bon bons.  Then I got my first job at the age of eleven picking eggs at a battery farm.  Clearly, I would do anything for money.  Since then, I’ve never really been out of employment and much of the time I’ve had more than one job to fuel my needs.  Unsurprisingly, I moved on to greater addictions such as cigarettes and Dorothy Perkins.  I never saved a thing.

So as you can see, I am not a saver. I’m an instant gratification-er.  I am an addict who thinks only of her next fix.  As the weekend approaches and being almost vice-less, I’m trying to figure out a way to make meringues in a makeshift saucepan oven and cereal bars from some old muesli and honey.   Buying things when I visit Kigali tends to end in the same kind of ugly scenario as I’ve painted above (see Easter).  Within 24 hours of my return to the forest, the stack of chocolate I planned to eke out over a week or two has disappeared.  The wine? Gone.  The fancy cheese? Gone.  And I‘m left with a few onions, some tomatoes, and a distended stomach full of shame.

So it has surprised me more than anyone, to find that having quit smoking six months ago (on January 5th to be precise), I have actually stuck to it (bar the requisite one or two drunken fags at Frandy’s house of cigarette sin).  Since giving up the demon weed, I have also noticed some level of saving – clearly not when it comes to major addictions such as chocolate, wine and cheese, but hey, I’m only just getting into this way of thinking!

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As I write this, I have just eaten my very last Alpen Summer Fruits Bar. I bought a few packs of these in the UK in FEBRUARY!  How on earth did I manage this?  There are other examples too; there’s the tortilla wraps, rose harissa paste, silken firm tofu and bounteous bottles of balsamic glaze. Hardly touched.  In fact, last weekend I conducted an audit to try and figure out how I was actually going to work my way through these in the nine weeks I have left in Rwanda.  I felt I was unlikely to use a bottle of balsamic glaze for every two weeks or a jar of Marmite every 10 days, so Frandy struck lucky and I have revealed the sum excitement of my weekends…

In truth, I believe this story is a familiar one to other volunteers like myself and may have little to do with a new found restraint on my part (we live in hope).   If we weren’t hoarders before, we sure as hell are now.  And I haven’t even started on the subject of how many lotions and potions are weighing down my vegetable rack-come-beauty-shelving in my bedroom. And my first aid kit would give any ambulance a run for its money.  Although, to be fair, I am short of a saline drip and defibrillator.

Now that I’m planning a five week backpacking trip for when I leave Rwanda, I find I’m being quite laissez-faire with such things and shall be simply packing a few plasters, Anthisan and some painkillers (did I mention that addiction?  No?  Another time).  Because, in the main, that’s all I’ve needed in the 16 months I’ve been here.

It’s easy to forget how you were in the beginning (if you’re not used to living in a place without shopping malls, a postal system or wealth) where you suddenly feel you have no compass and anything that represents safety, security or survival is clung to.  Looking back at newly-arrived-in Rwanda-me, I remember being delighted by the ‘finds’ of first aid stuff I made from the volunteer ‘communal box’ at the volunteer office.  I hadn’t quite the brain to figure out that the reason they were there, was that the departing volunteers, just like me now, found no real use for a sterile pack of needles or an eye pad.

And I think of the suitcase loads of things I’ve asked friends to bring out to me ranging from shoes to a tent.  Much of which have been little used (did I mention my Amazon shopping addiction? Which I have maintained even from afar?).

My Rwandan flatmate’s sister lives in Canada and she asked her to send some items from home.  These were: dried cassava leaves (to make isombi), a packet of tea, a bag made from kitenge material, and a cassette tape of Rwandan music.

everything happens to me

At over 2300 metres above sea level in a rainforest, and in the rainy season, one can’t hope for too much in the way of warmth and sunshine.  That said, this is a particularly cold and wet Sunday and the urge to lay in bed all day reading is strong.  Billie Holiday is doing her best to soothe the situation.

She needn’t worry though.  At 9 a.m. the day is already done. I’ve had a lovely morning birding with Oliver (my new birding pal) around the tea plantation before it started bucketing.  I’ve seen some great new birds, heard some great stories and seen lovely skies. We saw a black-headed heron near the tea which I found odd as I always expect to see herons near water.  Oliver explained how they like to catch mice and that they can sometimes be seen with their head on the ground listening for the little critters in their tunnels.

birding with oliver from my house

birding with oliver from my house

haven't we got these bushes?

haven’t we got these bushes?

At the edge of the tea and along the roads are lots of rambling bushes that look very familiar to a Brit.

blackberries!

blackberries!

The blackberries (well that’s what they look like) are coming out and I momentarily get transported to a damp autumn walk through a Sussex wood.

We walked through the little village which ribbons along the road into the park and where I work. The rain never seems to subdue the kids here and they were furiously bouncing new found little plastic balls on the road surface.  A dangerous game, given the speed the trucks race through at.

view to the village (and walk I make each day) to the honey centre

view to the village (and walk I make each day) to the honey centre

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The story of this village is a little blurred.  Apparently, they arrived around the time of the genocide as they were displaced, but no one seems to know where they actually came from. I guess you don’t ask.  Or more likely; people do know but maybe I shouldn’t ask.

They are also due to be evicted from the forest as many others have been. To protect the park.  There is some flexibility in the buffer zone around the edge of the park but no one is allowed to take anything from the park proper or indeed live inside it. Enforcing this is another matter and somewhat complex.  The work of NGO’s like the one I work for is specifically to encourage alternative, approved and legal ways of gaining a decent living. No one said Conservation was easy and I have all kinds of complex feelings about this.  the park itself is extremely important in so so many ways; including providing up to 70% of the water for the rest Rwanda.

charcoal skies

charcoal skies

People seem very poor in this village by Rwandan standards and work seems mainly in making charcoal and selling to passers-by in large rice sacks for four thousand Rwandan Francs (£4 or $6).  This is half the price of charcoal in Kigali and many stop and load their pickups with it.

The alternative choice of employment is the tea factory where you will be paid 700 Rwandan Francs for a long full day of picking tea.  That’s about 70 pence or around a dollar a day.  Like everywhere in the world, the cost of living has gone up substantially in Rwanda and comparative to other East African countries, basic goods are expensive.

On the upside, the tea you see in these photos is tea which belongs to the local cooperative.  They then sell on to the tea factories.  I’m told that a good fast picker can earn up to 1,400 Rwandan Francs which is pretty OK by local standards . More on this later…

view back to where I live

view back to where I live

Walking back from our rather soggy birding trip, the rain subsides and the sun comes out briefly offering up a magnificent sky.  It is so beautiful here and my heart lifts whenever the sun comes out like this. Or an augur buzzard soars past, or the baboons come back, or a scops owl stares at me furiously when I disturb him from a night’s hunting by lamplight. Wonderful. Sometimes my luck aint all that bad…IMG_5145

lost in a forest

On the day Bosco Ntaganda pleads “not guilty’ at the ICC (without being asked), you find me occupied with far more pressing concerns; ME and my inability to enjoy life even when it is going so well.

Things have taken a funny turn recently.   Not ha ha funny but more the curious kind of funny.  I’ve been planning and looking forward to starting this latest placement for months, here in the forest of Nyungwe National Park.  But now that I’m here, am I jumping up and down with eagerness and enthusiasm?  No, of course I’m not.  Oh hang on, here comes that theme again…the gin & tonic enigma

I’m working for an excellent Conservation NGO on a great project in a super house that has hot water coming out of a tap, gas cooking, and an amazing big wardrobe in a lovely room with a window that looks out onto trees with birds in them.   So why do I feel so glum?

I guess it could just be that anti-climax feeling you get when you’ve finished your last exam or submitted a huge piece of work.  Or got someone to like you (oh, is that just me?!).  Anyway, I’m now simply here and working and there are no more things to organise and plan for.  I was living out of suitcases for weeks and now they’re packed away.  It probably has nothing to do with the fact that I have incurred a few (stupid) minor injuries recently that have made me feel a little vulnerable.  And a long way from a doctor and from my lovely friends in Kigali and home. Boo!

It’s also the beginning of the rainy season and I’m struggling with the cold. Even all the hardy rangers are complaining about it.  There’s the occasional break in the torrential downpours and I get to see the wonderful view across to Burundi again.  Then it’s gone.  Yesterday, the hundred metre walk to work presented me with fog, then rain, then sunshine, then fog again.  It’s utterly incredible how quickly the weather changes.   And it’s going to be like this until June. Thankfully, I have piles of blankets to crawl under to go to bed every night but it is a bit of a shocker after Kigali.  And there is no leaping out of bed in the morning.  No siree!

Unsurprisingly, there are rather a lot of critters around here and in my house.  Especially spiders…  There is one rather large black spider who lives in a big crack in the kitchen where the tap comes out of.   He mostly just has his legs dangling out when I pass by.  But sometimes he comes all the way out to show off just how big he really is.  I’ve found that if I blow at him he tends to retreat though.  I’ve named him Robert in a bid at relationship building.  It seems to be working on account of when I was rushing out the other day, I noticed a large spidery-type corpse in the sink where I had just been washing up and was dismayed to find no legs (as usual) dangling from the tap crack.  Robert! I hoped he was just pretending to be dead, the way spiders do.  So I got a fish slice from the drawer and carefully scooped him out of the sink and onto the kitchen cleaning sponge.  When I came back the following day, he was no longer on the sponge and there were his legs dangling from his eyrie.  Order was restored.

I am, however, saddened to report that I’ve seen no hind nor hairy leg of Robert for the past 48 hours.  I fear the worst.  And for my sanity.  Is this what becomes of one when one enters the forest? I haven’t had any alcohol for over a week either.  The shocking truth of my new life lays bare before you dear reader.  It’s been two weeks.  I’m here for six months.  What, I wonder, will emerge after all that time?! At the rate I’m eating large plates of carbohydrates, I’m going to take a punt and suggest it won’t be a butterfly…

On the upside, I’m really looking forward to my lovely Kigali friends coming to visit for Easter.  I’ve ordered wood for the fire, ordered them to bring wine and we shall go a-walking in the forest.  Hope springs eternal I guess…

Blue Valentine

Valentine’s Day is not all hearts and flowers.  Certainly not in my case anyway.  Although I did have a pink handwritten note pushed under my door last week when I was staying on Lake Kivu.  OK.  So the note was a torn slip from a receipt book written on by a man I had just briefly met at the bar…but all the same, you gotta take credit when you can, right?

It was just after Valentine’s Day that I arrived in Rwanda exactly one year ago and I’m currently packing up my lovely home; IMG_4818not to return to the UK for good but to have a short (wonderful) holiday before I embark on my next placement which is also in Rwanda.  I’m going to work with beekeepers in the Nyungwe Forest as a Business Development Advisor for Wildlife Conservation Society

So a lot of changes and a lot to reflect on. 

I’ve been happier in this house than anywhere else I’ve lived since I left the UK in 2010 and I’m really sad to say goodbye to it and my guard and the rest of the people around here.  IMG_2774Others have come and gone and now it’s just me, packing things to take back to the UK and things to take to Nyungwe and things to give away.  Not since I left Brighton have I felt such a wrench.   And I shall miss the whistling competitions with the bulbuls and the chats.  Even though they always win.  And the kites at the bottom of the garden.  And Mr Pink. And the lizard who lives in the wall.

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Valentine’s Day is also the anniversary of the failed uprising in Bahrain.  It’s now two years since I watched tanks roll into Manama from my office window, and young men being fired at with (British made) teargas in the streets.  Little to nothing has changed since then and many people remain in prison for speaking up for their rights.  It’s a crying shame.

The good news is that I’m now living in a country that has been voted ‘the second most romantic country in the world’.  The bad news is that this doesn’t seem to have rubbed off on me… I had assumed that when men told me they loved me after making them a cup of tea or chatting in the street, that they simply liked me.  That it was just a translation thing.  Maybe I’ve been wrong then?

Of course I’m excited to be moving on and I’m really looking forward to getting to know the baboons (who, I’m told, hang about my new house in the forest) and all those new experiences waiting for me.   But for now, Valentine’s Day is a time for reflection.

Two years ago when I was making plans to leave Bahrain, could I possibly have imagined that I would now be about to start work for a conservation NGO in a rainforest in Rwanda?  Not likely! Am I happier now than I was then? Certainly. Although I wouldn’t say ‘happy’ was really the right word. Let’s not get carried away here!  But I definitely feel like I’m living.IMG_4413 - Copy

Rwanda is such a beautiful, fascinating and troubled place to live. It can often beguile and infuriate almost in the same moment . There is so much to occupy your mind with.  And whilst I’m fearful of not having a secure financial future, I have to remind myself of how miserable I was when I did have one.

Pretty Good day

Saturday 9th February 2013

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It was such a lovely morning with so many birds in full song swinging from one enormous colourful bloom to another.  And I managed to tick off a new bird species (to me) before I’d even got half way round. I’d intended the day to be allocated to walking and swimming which I find always aid thinking but there was a such a lot going on it was difficult to concentrate on internal matters.

Pulling away from the lake to go up and over the hill, each bend offered another great view of the still lake shimmering under the paths of cormorants flapping furiously on and on.

double toothed barbet (not author's photo!)

double toothed barbet (not author’s photo!)

By the looks of all the freshly caught sambaza (small fish) in buckets carried on the heads of the women moving carefully down the hill, perhaps the cormorants were evacuating to new pastures.  Given that the fishermen are out all night every night with their bright lanterns to fool fish into swimming towards them, competition is fierce on the lake.

A young dog came bounding down the lane to catch up with the women and took such a fright when it saw me, it ran into the trees.  We all laughed.

When I got to Cormoran, I remained the sole occupant of the lakeside for two exquisitely peaceful hours and it reminded me of how impossible it is to be outside and alone in Rwanda.  Even in your own garden.  I lay still on the sun lounger and observed the arrival of various kinds of brightly coloured lizards onto the warming rocks, a pintail quarrelling with a greenbul and all the other bird life enjoying the bright morning just as I was.  And I thoroughly enjoyed my eye-level view of a colony of small ants living in the log table next to me.

There was so much going on that I felt like I was in my very own nature documentary; especially when a black and brown striped rodent of some sort came leaping across to grass on a sortie. What more delights were to offer themselves up?  I looked at my watch. It was 9.30am.

ACME Lake Kivu lizard

ACME Lake Kivu lizard

Soon enough, people started to arrive and, inevitably, the lizards shrunk back into the shadows, the birds packed away their bunting and David Attenborough refused to return my calls.  Only the ants seemed to take no notice, carefully carrying my accidentally-on-purposely discarded grains of sugar to their nest on the other side of the log.

It appears that not all grains of sugar are the same.  Some are very small which one ant can lift without apparent difficulty.  However, some grains are a little larger which requires up to three ants to carry.  When this occurs, they seem to career off course from the nest in unexplained complex manoeuvres.  Watching them, I was reminded of Laurel and Hardy in The Music Box trying to move a piano up a flight of stairs. Suffice it to say, ants are now my friends.

I then spent the rest of the day flopping in and out of the lake trying to swim far enough out to make the little fish leap out of the water in fright. The water was so still and a perfect temperature, it felt like being in one gigantic swimming pool (albeit a little green).  Many people prefer not to swim due to bilharzia in the lake but I don’t believe this is a serious threat unless you wade through the reeds.  Don’t miss out if you’re reading this in Rwanda and have never gone in. It’s glorious.IMG_4803

I finally dragged myself away in the early evening as it would be getting dark soon and a storm was grumbling around somewhere.  The return walk was just as eventful with the finale of the day; seeing a large otter (probably spotted) fishing below me and lying on his back while biting at the fish in between his enormous paws.  I’ve never seen one on Lake Kivu so was delighted with my very own catch of the day.

I got back to my room just as the storm hit and thoroughly enjoyed the warm shower on my lake soaked, sunburned skin.

The Price of Everything

4,000 Rwandan Francs is nearly five British Pounds or six American Dollars.  And below is a list of things you can buy for this or under…

FOUR sacks of charcoal

EIGHT 500g pouches of UHT milk

ONE pedicure

TWO lilos from Simba

TEN return trips to town on the bus

ONE AND ONE THIRD of a chicken (live)

EIGHT days of unlimited internet

ONE plastic patio chair

TWENTY small tins of tomato paste

ONE skirt custom made (not including material)

TWO loaves of brown bread from La Galette

FIVE twelve hour night shifts of a house guard

FOURTEEN Fantas

FIFTY SEVEN eggs

EIGHT small Primus beers

ONE THIRD of a bottle of Elvive shampoo

ONE bar of Swiss milk chocolate

TWO and a THIRD grapefruits

FIFTEEN days of a houseboy

ONE way bus trip to Uganda

THREE weeks parcel storage

TWO plastic buckets (with lids)

TWENTY lighters

EIGHT packets of cigarettes

et le temps perdu…

Dear Diary

So much has happened since I last made an entry!  How time flies. But I won’t bore you with my travel tales, car breakdowns and unmentionable infestations…

I want to talk about watching TV in my local beauty salon.

I’ve been going there ever since I arrived in Rwanda.  It’s easy for a girl to let herself go and I have certainly joined in with the greasy hair/no make-up/sandal look which, when combined with that cute vintage style dress which looked so stylish back home, now makes you look more like a campaigner for the Republican party in the US of A.

All these sloth-like behaviours are forgivable.  What cannot be forgiven is to let your feet go and to develop elephant foot! Yeuch!

Given the fact that it is kinda always summer here (smiley face) and there are no baths to languish in, elephant foot can set in pretty quickly in you’re not on top of your game.

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That’s where the Umubano hotel’s beauty salon comes in. For four English pounds, you get to have your feet soaked, scrubbed, sand-papered, massaged and (if you have been a very bad girl/boy and let things to get out of hand) cheese-grated! You know who you are.  Bridget.

You can then walk out with the prettiest, baby-soft little digits all painted happy colours. This lasts around four days before the rot starts to set in again…

But I haven’t even told you the best bit; the salon is always packed with (mainly) women and men being buffed and preened and it’s just great to sit and gawp at everyone (who is also gawping back at you). Women are always having wonderful things done with their hair with the occasional shriek from a hot iron being applied a little too enthusiastically.  And if you’re really lucky, you get to witness a bit of a falling out over the result of a haircut.

Whilst all this is going on and I have no idea what words people are using, it still feels a bit like we’re all together. In the salon.  And we all witness (and hope for dramatic) events together.

There’s a kind of silent war between the male hair stylists and the female elephant foot removalists.  The men occupy the rear of the salon and always have the football on the telly. Any football.  At all. They also seem to always have possession of the remote.

However, when the time comes for The Bold & the Beautiful to be on, one of the women strolls into the male domain and retrieves the remote with no resistance.  I wonder what must have gone before for this peaceful handover?

The Bold & the Beautiful is of course dubbed into French and is utterly utterly awful and therefore addictive to watch. Naturally.  Whilst I can’t speak French (obviasalement), I am lulled into it and my Kindle remains a revolving ink pot.

The foot goddesses moon into the mirrors behind their clients to watch B&B in the reflection and the room quietens down bar the odd snort of disgust from the hair men and the rasping sound of horny feet being filed…

Tonight, Bobby Ewing pitched up (I confess, I know little of this programme and have only seen it at the salon) and it was wonderful hearing his dulcet French tones “je suis perdu!”

On seeking a clip on Youtube this evening, I’ve discovered this TV show has been running since the Elizabethan times and the clip below has the same actors from all those years ago; before the Botox and hair dye (for the men) but I guess the Botox was a necessary requirement to dampen down those absurd facial gestures.

Enjoy…